Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Brandade is a classic French appetizer made of puréed salt cod, potatoes, olive oil and garlic. It can be made days in advance and kept in the fridge for last-minute lunches or suppers (find the full recipe for brandade below).

For perfect, jammy soft-boiled eggs, carefully lower 4 eggs into gently boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water and let sit for 2 minutes before peeling.

Once you’ve got everything prepared, slather your toasts with brandade and put under a broiler for 2–3 minutes, or until lightly brown and bubbly. Top each with halved eggs sprinkled with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper and some tender spring herbs like parsley, chives or chervil.

BRANDADE de MORUE (Salt Cod and Potato Puree) 

Makes 4 cups

Brandade de morue is a French appetizer made from salt cod and potatoes that are whipped with garlic and olive oil and served with toasted bread. Before making the dish, the fish must be soaked in water for at least 8 hours to remove the excess salt. This version incorporates smoked paprika which is not traditional, but adds a delicious earthy flavor. Packed into an oven-safe serving dish and broiled until lightly browned, brandade makes a wonderful hors d'oeuvre for a cocktail party. 

1 pound salt cod
2 medium white potatoes
1½ cups milk
6 large garlic cloves
juice of one lemon
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup olive oil
salt, to taste

Rinse the salt cod and place it in a 3-quart container filled with cold water. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. 

Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down to medium and cook for 25 minutes or until you can insert a paring knife with little resistance. Scoop the potatoes out with a slotted spoon and place them on a plate until cool enough to handle. 

Remove the salt cod from the soaking water, place in a medium saucepan and cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain the fish and when cool enough to handle, flake into small pieces. Be sure to remove any bones or tough, silvery membranes. 

Return the fish to the saucepan and add the milk and garlic. Bring to a simmer and cook, covered, for 15 minutes.

Peel the potatoes and quarter them. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulse together the potatoes, fish and milk until mostly smooth. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, add the lemon juice, smoked paprika and pepper and blend again until the mixture is uniform. 

With the motor running, drizzle the olive oil through the feed tube and blend until the mixture is creamy and whipped. Taste and season with salt if you like. 

The finished brandade can be transferred into a ceramic crock or oven-proof serving dish, broiled and served with slices of baguette for dipping. It can also be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to one week.

This recipe appeared in the Spring 2023 issue as part of a larger story: A Toast to Spring.