Ana Sortun: Oleana, Sofra Bakery and Café and Sarma, Cambridge & Somerville
PROFILE ELEVEN IN THIS SERIES: BOSTON CHEFS AND THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC
In 2001 Ana Sortun opened Oleana. In 2008, with business partner, Maura Kilpatrick, she opened Sofra Bakery and Café. In 2013, she and Cassie Piuma brought Sarma to life.
But it is Sofra that I am thinking about. Pre-COVID, regardless of the weather, I stood in line (inches, not feet apart), always confident that it would be worth the wait.
Now it takes just minutes to place our order on the phone, straining to hear voices muffled by masks as we ask for our favorite red lentil flatbread. Yet convenience will never replace the seductive magnet of the ingredients that greeted me every time Sofra’s door opened—pure magic!
Ana Sortun’s restaurants resonate with those wistful, aromatic notes, like walking into Symphony Hall as the BSO envelopes you with exquisite sounds from their nimble fingers and breathless notes, filling the hall in concert. Always a different note, with its many variations, always in sync with my expectations.
When our new normal allows us back inside restaurants, try donning a blindfold and you’ll understand why it’s the scents that make the memories.
Until then, let Ana Sortun share what’s been happening as we move into phase 2.
What are your thoughts following the peak of the pandemic?
It’s forced us to stop, slow down and take a look at the world. It’s a pause. I feel fortunate that I am healthy and that my family, friends and staff are OK, too.
When the guidelines were released in mid-March, what were your immediate thoughts?
I was afraid for my businesses, worried for those that didn’t have access to unemployment benefits—however deep down, I knew that we could all get through this together.
What steps did you take to prepare for the lockdown—both professionally and personally?
I spent a lot of time reading and learning what was happening and what kinds of help was available. There wasn’t a lot that could be done to prepare for this but as it unfolded I tried to face each day and circumstances one at a time.
Are you using this time to experiment with other dishes or are you not working with food at all?
I cooked more at home than I had before but didn’t find myself with lots of time or creative space in my mind [or] on my hands.
Describe the differences you’ve experienced between being at home as opposed to running your restaurant.
My home became an office and investigating and absorbing all the details consumed lots of time for the first few weeks. As takeout plans started happening, less time was spent at home.
Everybody’s talking about Netflix, HBO and other TV streaming; do you have any recommendations you want to share?
My TV habits didn’t change much, although I had fantasies of binge watching and hanging out watching movie after movie!
What are the staples in your kitchen that you can’t do without? Have you been able to keep these items in stock?
Spices, great veggies, good yogurt, Anson Mills rice and grains. I haven’t had any issues with any supplies during the pandemic, however, I really missed easy access to great fish.
What is your go-to menu now that you are cooking more at home?
Vegetable pancakes like zucchini; brown rice bowls with great yogurt; veggie enchiladas; chicken thighs braised in coconut milk, soy and rice vinegar; snap pea salads; lots of local asparagus and mushrooms.
What kind of safety precautions are you taking?
Wash hands, wear mask, social distance.
How are you coping with stress?
Walks, a puppy, yoga classes at Om Namo, friends, cooking.
Because of the stay-at-home rule, have you been propelled to do things that you never thought you had time for? If so, what?
I’ve kept so busy during this time. I didn’t find myself with too much leisure. If anything, things slowed down a little for more time to process what was happening all around.
Will this pandemic crisis change the way you do business in the future and if so how?
Hopefully sharing tips with the whole house will be a permanent change going forward and new takeout skills and delivery options might come in handy as we ride the waves for another year or two.
Would the seating capacity of your restaurant change because of the social distancing even when the guidelines no longer exist?
Yes indeed. We’ll be half a restaurant, with half a menu, half a staff perhaps—at all three locations. Keeping take-out going is the key to survival and helps people at home tremendously.
Is there anything you would like to share in reflection on this crisis that we are all in together?
2020 is about getting through crisis. Its bigger message might just be about CHANGE. Facing it together, thinking about one another and taking care of one another and hanging on. It’s not about our ambitions. We need to be careful with all of the fear and how it affects our decisions.
