Caponata

Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Late summer, when the farmers market is brimming with ripe tomatoes and eggplants, is the perfect time for this Sicilian antipasto. A cousin of French ratatouille, caponata’s defining characteristic is its harmonious blend of contrasting flavors. Sugar and golden raisins provide sweetness, vinegar adds a tangy punch and delightful bursts of saltiness come from capers and olives. Salting the eggplant is a worthwhile step as it breaks down the cells, preventing it from absorbing too much oil. For optimal flavor-melding, caponata is best made ahead and refrigerated for a day or two. Serve on its own, as a topping for grilled bread, or alongside grilled chicken or fish.

Makes 4½ cups

1 large eggplant (about 1½ pounds), chopped into ¾-inch pieces
1 tablespoon salt, plus more if needed
½ cup olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 medium celery stalks, chopped
3 ripe plum tomatoes, chopped
½ cup white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
⅓ cup golden raisins
6 large green olives, pitted and chopped
1 tablespoon capers
1 tablespoon pine nuts
handful of torn fresh basil leaves

Line a baking sheet with paper towels and spread the chopped eggplant in 1 layer. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon salt and toss gently. Let sit for 20 minutes at room temperature, until the eggplant begins to release its moisture. Blot dry with paper towels.

In a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil until it shimmers. Add half the eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add the remaining ¼ cup olive oil to skillet and repeat with the remaining eggplant. Transfer to the same bowl, trying to leave as much oil as possible in the skillet.

Lower heat to medium and add the chopped onion and celery to skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, vinegar, sugar and golden raisins. Stir to combine and simmer until the liquid has evaporated by half, about 10 minutes.

Return the cooked eggplant to the skillet with the other vegetables. Stir in the chopped green olives, capers and pine nuts and simmer for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a shallow bowl to cool. Serve cold or at room temperature, sprinkled with the torn basil leaves.

This recipe appeared in the Summer 2023 issue as part of a larger story, A Sicilian Summer.