A Weekend Day Trip to Inland North Shore
Photos by Michael Piazza
While the North Shore is known for its beautiful coastlines, not far inland its abundance of expansive pastures and historic working farms are just as worthy of a visit from the city. For our final North Shore day trip, we’re highlighting some spots in the hidden gem towns of Middleton, Topsfield, Boxford and Rowley. Like any gourmet-focused day trip, be sure to pack your cooler and trusty totes, and check hours and opening days as many locations on our list are open only on weekends.
As you embark on your journey, drop a pin for The Lot on South Main in Middleton, easily accessible via Route 114 and just minutes from Routes 1 and 95. Upon arrival at the family-owned spot, you’re surrounded by picnic tables and a handful of food trucks. Meander through the lineup, which includes Chicken & The Pig serving chicken sandwiches, specialty hot dogs, fun spins on waffle fries and more; Salty’s Lobster Shack, which is basically everything lobster—rolls, sandwiches and tacos—plus fresh fried seafood plates; Good Fellows, perfecting grass-fed smash burgers and specialty sandwiches; or Taco Libre, for authentic Mexican. Every food truck features a kids menu too; this is the perfect family-oriented lunch stop.
As luck would have it, the North Shore’s iconic, award-winning Richardson’s Ice Cream is right next door. The flagship ice cream stand, located on a working dairy farm, has been running for generations and features dozens of classic flavors along with specialty ones, like Grapenut Custard, Green Monster and Maine Black Bear. If you feel so inclined, pair your ice cream break with a visit to the farm out back, the playground, miniature golf courses, batting cages or driving range. If your cooler is equipped, you will not regret a couple of half gallons to go.
Drive deeper into farm territory as you approach Topsfield, known to most as the location of America’s oldest county fair (which starts in late September and is absolutely worth a visit later in the year). High on a hill with open views of the Ipswich River is an 1830s farmhouse, the home of Valley View Farmstead Cheeses. You’ll be greeted by the farm’s herd of gorgeously patterned Anglo- Nubian goats that produce mild, sweet milk used in high-butterfat cheeses. Valley View makes a variety of goat-milk cheeses and also partners with nearby farms to make cow and mixed milk variations. The honor-system farm stand on site sells an array of products including their own maple syrup, honey, cheese and eggs, as well as some local favorites like Maitland Mountain Farm pickles and kimchi, New England Charcuterie, Bonny Breads (by pre-order only), Mozzarella House cheeses, locally grown mushrooms, local duck eggs, Kimball Farm jams, Baer’s Best Beans, Effie’s Homemade biscuits, Brewer’s Flatbread crackers, Sage Meadow Farm goat milk soaps and more.
For a nature walk, nearby Bradley Palmer State Park is comprised of 721 acres of trails meandering through fields and woodlands on the banks of the Ipswich River. On the northern side of the park, you can also access the Willowdale Estate from the Topsfield entrance. Willowdale was commissioned in the early 1900s by Bradley Palmer, a notable attorney who was looking for a property to host his horses. The European-inspired Arts and Crafts fieldstone mansion blends motifs from many architectural styles, quite the eccentric mix. Nowadays, the estate is a lovely venue for weddings and events. Bradley Palmer State Park (see photo above) is family-friendly with hiking, biking trails and a wading pool to keep cool in the warmer months; it also has many picnic tables if you’ve thought ahead and packed an array of specialties from the many nearby farm stands.
From Topsfield, drive northwest until you reach the charming town of Boxford and West Village Provisions. Stock up on an array of carefully curated groceries and be sure to include some ground beef or steaks from nearby Millbrook Fields Farm. West Village Provisions is also known for their sandwiches, frappes, smoothies and cookies. Make someone’s day by sending a Cookiegram: a dozen chocolate chip cookies baked to order and shipped out that day.
Meander east to the last town in our lineup, Rowley. As you approach multi-generational Herrick Farm, dating back to the 1600s as a former sawmill, Dodge’s Sawmill, you’ll pass happy Holstein cows and steers grazing in the lush green grounds. The farm store on the property sells its own raw milk, a variety of grass-fed beef, eggs and seasonal, farm-fresh fruits and vegetables. For fellow gardeners and farmers, Herrick Farm also sells their own hay, composted manure and custom rough-cut lumber. It doesn’t get much more authentic than that.
No visit to Rowley would be complete without a visit to the famed Todd’s Riverview Farm Antique Shops & Flea Market which features an array of shopping options. The open flea market on the grounds runs every Sunday, weather permitting, from about April until November. Vendors from all over New England set up their wares, from antiques to fun tchotchkes. The House Shops on the grounds contain multiple shops featuring vintage collectibles, antique art and refurbished furniture. The historic Barn at Todd Farm sells even more antiques from various periods as well as a wide range of one-of-akind trinkets. The Grill and Snack Bar next door ensures you’re fueled up and hydrated when sleuthing for goods you never knew you needed.
At the end of the day, stop for a glass of wine at the woman-owned Mill River Winery, where you can enjoy a flight or glass of wine and a delicious selection of seasonal small bites and charcuterie boards in the cool and cozy mid-1800s converted tasting room barn, the balmy outdoor patio, or amongst the vines in the vineyard out back. Cayuga and Frontenac are hearty cold-climate grapes that grow in the vineyard and are blended into many of the wines on site including the Plum Island Series, named after the nearby beach. These easy-drinking wines are on the sweeter side and perfect for a summer boat trip. The Signature wines are handcrafted, dry-styled varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Primitivo. For the rosé lover, the Shades of Grey Provence-style blend is part of the Collector’s Edition and a lovely drystyled wine with notes of strawberry and orange blossom. Be sure to grab a few bottles before you depart, and do keep in mind that reservations are preferred, while walkins are welcome on a first come, first served basis.
If you’re more of a beer fan, Anonymous Brewing is nearby. The industrial interior is a former auto repair shop with seating for any group size, and the outdoor patio expands the space. Like many local breweries, dogs and kids are encouraged, and beers on tap appeal to any palate. They operate on a hyper-nano, one-beer-barrel small batches, which allows for precision and an ever-changing rotation of styles. Some favorites include the Old Nancy, a crisp and refreshing Helles lager, or the Squish, a hoppy pale ale with slightly sweet citrus flavors. As you sip, you’ll notice a rotating selection of artwork around you featuring local artists. Be sure to grab some cans to go.
End your day with dinner just down the street at The Grove Restaurant, a modern post-and-beam barn with a rustic and industrial chic interior. Sit under exposed beams in the airy interior or, on a warm evening, enjoy the outdoor patio. The culinary team creates a changing menu of seasonal, local dishes from ingredients sourced at nearby farms and everything made in house. Order some snacks like the tater tots with duck fat, thyme, sea salt and horseradish cream, followed by mussels with bacon, red pepper, celery, white wine and toast, then a sandwich, pasta dish or an entree like the lamb shank with housemade conchiglie, roasted red peppers, black olives, broccoli rabe, lamb jus and Parmigiano. The bar team crafts elaborate cocktails with fun spins as well as an extensive wine list and local beer program.
At this point, why not stay the night? The adjacent Briar Barn Inn offers 30 luxuriously cozy guest rooms surrounding an open, firepit-centered courtyard. Each room has its own fireplace plus a mix of antiques, original artwork and rustic yet elegant accents. If you feel so inclined, the spa offers massages, rejuvenating skin treatments and an invigorating outdoor spa pool. A truly majestic retreat just a short drive away from the city.
anonbrew.com
briarbarninn.com
groverowley.com
herrickfarm.net
mass.gov/locations/bradley-palmer-state-park
millriverwines.com
richardsonsicecream.com
thelotonsouthmain.com
thetoddfarm.com
valleyviewcheese.com
westvillageprovisions.com
willowdaleestate.com
This story appeared in the Summer 2023 issue.
